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The eyes have it
Eyeball scanning, perhaps a modern day truth serum? A probe through the eyes (and into the brain?) is now standard procedure applied to those attempting to enter the UAE at the Al Ain border. Was this, we wondered, an attempt to extract any seditious thoughts or indecent proposals lying within the deepest, darkest cavities of our minds?
Whatever, they must have through something was up. A camera posed one set of digitally-voiced instructions while the operator gave a contradictory set. If the talking camera directed us to move closer to the lens, the man demanded we move back. We, unlike others being processed, seemed incapable of following either set of commands. Perhaps exasperated at our lack of comprehension or having found no evidence of a brain, the border officials eventually let us go, stamped our passports and we were on our way.
This was our fourth crossing between Oman and the UAE, each time was different. Previously we had found the wrong border exit from Al Aim, at Al Buraymi, a crossing used by locals who inhabit an approximately 40 kilometers stretch of no-man’s land between UAE and Oman. Residents come and go at will, just using some sort of local identity card. So, unused to western tourists, an official told us we’d have to go to a hut to sort out exit arrangements. There, alone, in the corner of what looked to be a disused hangar, a man took our money and sent us next door to have our passports stamped. We found the room, a door with a sign, Visas, scrawled in handwriting above it, but locked and with no-one in sight. Looking helpless we somehow managed to attract attention, the necessary stamps and depart.
Similarly, each time we crossed there were different requirements with the rental car. Earlier, the focus had been on showing that the car was adequately insured for Oman, later just to prove we were in legitimate control was sufficient. Who cares about insurance anyway?
We have been unable as yet to solve the puzzle of why New Zealanders are not required to pay an entry visa charge into Oman and are allowed to stay for three months as opposed to the thirty days for nationals of all other countries. Each time, we have crossed the border Omani officials have told us, proudly so, of this special arrangement with New Zealand. While there are vague references to this on government websites, there is no real explanation. Perhaps it is because we are nicer.

Bloomin’ algae

A mystery has been solved. On February 26 we reported a carpet of dead fish on the coastline of Sohar in Oman, but could provide no explanation aside from some speculation that there has been an explosion associated with nearby construction. Not so, we have learned. Algal bloom is to blame, the red tide. Our minds are at ease.