GlasnostIn Soi Rommannee, which runs between Dibuk and Krabi Roads there is an exquisite little coffee house which goes by the somewhat out-of-place name of Glasnost. Sitting in a row of beautiful, ornate old buildings, it is dark and moody inside, with acoustic guitars and other stringed instruments around the walls and conga and snare drums in front of low slung, dark tables adorned with bric a brac, and wooden chairs. On the walls are old, decaying posters of Ella Fitzgerald and Charlie Parker, and sepia photos of the old town. Such chic would be at home in the sophisticated heart of Paris, but this is old Phuket Town.
The history of Phuket island, or Junk Ceylon as it was known, has its origins in tin mining from as far back as the sixteenth century, but it became more prominent with a mining boom in the nineteenth century when the island was settled by Chinese, Malays, Indians, Nepalese and Thais, called Babas. Phuket town was the trading centre, described in one guide as a hive of activity “where tin mine workers would buy essentials, sell tin ore and indulge themselves in less-than-exemplary activities. Theirs was a hard life and the comforts of alcohol, opium, women, and the chance to win some extra cash through gambling provided a heady contrast to the drudgery of tin prospecting.”
The town’s architecture is variously described as Sino-Portugese or Sino-Colonial, the latter apparently being the more accurate as there is, in fact very little Portuguese influence remaining. Instead, the design of most buildings derives from the British, with rich tin mining company owners having brought architects, builders, and materials from the nearby (then) Malayan island of Penang and built huge mansions and ornates in the old town. While it is plainly apparent that many of the buildings have fallen into a state of disrepair, some extremely so, it is good to see signs of restoration and heartening to learn that heritage orders have been placed on the whole area to ensure its character is retained.
Some of the filming of The Killing Fields, the movie depicting the reign of Cambodia’s Khmer Rouge, took place here, one of the old mansions being used as Phom Pehn’s American Embassy. Another place also used in movies is the Phra Phitak Chin Pracha mansion, which is of Italian style and said to be the most beautiful house in Phuket. Today a sign at the gate warns visitors they are not permitted entry, the mansion is in private ownership and currently being restored.
Next for us was a quick visit to the Phuket Thaihua Museum which depicts the Chinese history in the town with a magnificent display of photographs; the museum building itself having recently been given the Best Art and Architectural Preservation Award.
This is a town we were told held little interest for tourists and, while we may not have had a coffee at number 14 Soi Rommannee (it was too hot to accept the owner’s invitation) we did purchase water at NZ 2.5 cents per bottle and filled the motorbike with petrol for $2. Now that is our sort of town.
The history of Phuket island, or Junk Ceylon as it was known, has its origins in tin mining from as far back as the sixteenth century, but it became more prominent with a mining boom in the nineteenth century when the island was settled by Chinese, Malays, Indians, Nepalese and Thais, called Babas. Phuket town was the trading centre, described in one guide as a hive of activity “where tin mine workers would buy essentials, sell tin ore and indulge themselves in less-than-exemplary activities. Theirs was a hard life and the comforts of alcohol, opium, women, and the chance to win some extra cash through gambling provided a heady contrast to the drudgery of tin prospecting.”
The town’s architecture is variously described as Sino-Portugese or Sino-Colonial, the latter apparently being the more accurate as there is, in fact very little Portuguese influence remaining. Instead, the design of most buildings derives from the British, with rich tin mining company owners having brought architects, builders, and materials from the nearby (then) Malayan island of Penang and built huge mansions and ornates in the old town. While it is plainly apparent that many of the buildings have fallen into a state of disrepair, some extremely so, it is good to see signs of restoration and heartening to learn that heritage orders have been placed on the whole area to ensure its character is retained.
Some of the filming of The Killing Fields, the movie depicting the reign of Cambodia’s Khmer Rouge, took place here, one of the old mansions being used as Phom Pehn’s American Embassy. Another place also used in movies is the Phra Phitak Chin Pracha mansion, which is of Italian style and said to be the most beautiful house in Phuket. Today a sign at the gate warns visitors they are not permitted entry, the mansion is in private ownership and currently being restored.
Next for us was a quick visit to the Phuket Thaihua Museum which depicts the Chinese history in the town with a magnificent display of photographs; the museum building itself having recently been given the Best Art and Architectural Preservation Award.
This is a town we were told held little interest for tourists and, while we may not have had a coffee at number 14 Soi Rommannee (it was too hot to accept the owner’s invitation) we did purchase water at NZ 2.5 cents per bottle and filled the motorbike with petrol for $2. Now that is our sort of town.
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