New Year’s honoursAs one year on the road draws to an end, it is time to review some highlights and lowlights. With eighteen countries visited, twelve airlines to judge and more than twenty one airports under our belts we feel well qualified to hand out a few ratings for the best and worst of 2009.
Airlines
By a country mile, Emirates remains the world’s top airline and although we missed out on our scheduled ride on the new double-storied Airbus A380, their Boeings and Airbuses are well fitted out, have plenty of legroom, excellent service and up to 1,000 entertainment channels to choose from. We travelled four long haul and three short haul flights on Emirates and, without exception, all were good. The only drawback, and it applies to most airlines these days, is that they are very lean with the wine. Of the smaller or budget carriers, Bangkok Air, Air Asia and Air Berlin all deserve a mention for their world class service.
The Australian budget carrier, Jetstar easily surpassed all comers for our worst airline experience of all time. Not only was the plane cramped, the ventilation system on our nine hour flight between Sydney and Phuket was on the blink and the cabin was freezing. Their answer was to offer blankets for hire at $Aus8 a pop. Aside from that, passengers who booked through Qantas didn’t get the chance to pre-purchase food or entertainment systems. We travelled on a number of budget carriers, including those with terrible reputations, but Jetstar left them all for dead.
By a country mile, Emirates remains the world’s top airline and although we missed out on our scheduled ride on the new double-storied Airbus A380, their Boeings and Airbuses are well fitted out, have plenty of legroom, excellent service and up to 1,000 entertainment channels to choose from. We travelled four long haul and three short haul flights on Emirates and, without exception, all were good. The only drawback, and it applies to most airlines these days, is that they are very lean with the wine. Of the smaller or budget carriers, Bangkok Air, Air Asia and Air Berlin all deserve a mention for their world class service.
The Australian budget carrier, Jetstar easily surpassed all comers for our worst airline experience of all time. Not only was the plane cramped, the ventilation system on our nine hour flight between Sydney and Phuket was on the blink and the cabin was freezing. Their answer was to offer blankets for hire at $Aus8 a pop. Aside from that, passengers who booked through Qantas didn’t get the chance to pre-purchase food or entertainment systems. We travelled on a number of budget carriers, including those with terrible reputations, but Jetstar left them all for dead.
Airports
The most fabulous airport in the world has to be at Samui in Thailand with its open air departure and arrival lounges, a tree lined shopping boulevard, free internet access and free snacks and drinks for passengers. Arriving visitors are greeted by waiting staff to ensure that transfers to hotels are all in order and, for those who have no arrangements, taxis are on hand.
The most shameless airports are those which, for the payment of a fee, allow passengers to jump to the front of their security queue. The managers of London’s regional airports of Luton, Gatwick and Stanstead should hang their greedy heads in disgrace.
The most fabulous airport in the world has to be at Samui in Thailand with its open air departure and arrival lounges, a tree lined shopping boulevard, free internet access and free snacks and drinks for passengers. Arriving visitors are greeted by waiting staff to ensure that transfers to hotels are all in order and, for those who have no arrangements, taxis are on hand.
The most shameless airports are those which, for the payment of a fee, allow passengers to jump to the front of their security queue. The managers of London’s regional airports of Luton, Gatwick and Stanstead should hang their greedy heads in disgrace.
Event of the year
Seath and Nicole’s wedding on Merlin Beach at Phuket was a cracker. There could be few more spectacular venues and everything went without a hitch. Great people, excellent food and drink, beautiful weather and such a romantic setting as the sun sank in the evening sky and the dancing started. It seemed fitting to have Lou Reed’s Perfect Day belting out on the PA.
Seath and Nicole’s wedding on Merlin Beach at Phuket was a cracker. There could be few more spectacular venues and everything went without a hitch. Great people, excellent food and drink, beautiful weather and such a romantic setting as the sun sank in the evening sky and the dancing started. It seemed fitting to have Lou Reed’s Perfect Day belting out on the PA.
Concert
Despite a two hour traffic jam outside the venue and completely inadequate toilet and food facilities once inside, Leonard Cohen’s concert at Mercedes World, Weybridge just outside London, was a highlight of a lifetime. Cohen was in great form with all of his best songs, a superb backing band and the sublime Webb Sisters on backing vocals. What could be better, even if it did pour with rain throughout most of the (outdoor) show?
Other concert treats included Sir Paul McCartney turning up on stage at Hyde Park to play with Neil Young at the Hard Rock Calling concert (now they know how to organise a good gig), Eric Clapton at the Royal Albert Hall and the eighty-something year old BB King at Wembley.
We shouldn’t forget the New Zealand band The Bats who we saw in London, Ro Dalziel’s play Lost in Thought at the Hen and Chickens Theatre in London and an Australian play, When the Rain Falls.
Other concert treats included Sir Paul McCartney turning up on stage at Hyde Park to play with Neil Young at the Hard Rock Calling concert (now they know how to organise a good gig), Eric Clapton at the Royal Albert Hall and the eighty-something year old BB King at Wembley.
We shouldn’t forget the New Zealand band The Bats who we saw in London, Ro Dalziel’s play Lost in Thought at the Hen and Chickens Theatre in London and an Australian play, When the Rain Falls.
Unexpected highlights
We pinched ourselves at times to make sure it was real. The Mussandam Peninsula at the northern tip of Oman; we had never even heard of it but there we were in a dhow watching for dolphins and then swimming in what seemed one of the most remote places on earth. Oman itself would be one of the more interesting countries we visited, its capital Muscat a charming city comprising enclaves of white buildings and markets among barren, rocky outcrops.
Earlier there had been the Christmas markets in Germany where we stood outdoors while it snowed, drinking Gluywein, a spiced, mulled wine, and eating bratwurst sausages, and later travelling by rail across Germany, Holland and Belgium. The Rhine Valley with its castles was simply lovely, as were the towns of Mainz and Koblenz.
Back in the Middle East we defied the car rental company’s rules to go cross-country into the desert (successfully) in search of camel racing and later to Al Ain to the camel markets. There too were the monuments to excess, the Emirates Palace Hotel (where you can get your cappuccino served with gold flakes) in Abu Dhabi and Atlantis, a hotel at the tip of the Jumeriah Palm in Dubai.
In Barbados, we swam with turtles and snorkelled over sunken ships and drove the roughest roads imaginable to sea caves and sugar plantations.
Nowhere else have we seen such beautiful seas as in Croatia and Greece. The azure blue of the water is breathtaking, as are the rocky coastlines. Perhaps the only drawback the beaches are so rocky and slippery that swimming shoes were necessary. What did surprise us was the ancient Roman architecture of northern Croatia.
One place we never dreamed that we would visit was Hungary; we were persuaded to go by a new Hungarian friend and we weren’t disappointed, particularly notable were Memento Park and its memorabilia of the communist era, its spa towns, fields of sunflowers and, intriguingly, the liberating experience of the nudist beach at Lake Balaton (so good we found more in Croatia).
In Greece one night, intoxicated perhaps by the array of women at his bar at the Apollo, Dimitri the host turned up the music and began dancing. Not to be outdone by Mad George who was wooing the women, or at least attempting to, Dimitri brought out the crockery and, in traditional Greek fashion, the plate-smashing began. What a night, it seemed unreal as we walked home afterwards while bats danced in the light of the flickering streetlamps.
Quite surprisingly we found ourselves fascinated by animals (particularly as we are too irresponsible to own any). London Zoo and its Gorillas and Galapagos Giant turtles, the snakes, retiles and coloured birds of Asia, the green monkeys and (mating) tortoises of Barbados and the native animals of Australia; Quokkas, Tasmanian Devils, Parrots, Koalas, Wombats, Kookaburras and the fascinating flying foxes.
Perhaps though the crowning glory was the monkey show in Samui and while there was no cigarette-smoking, these little creatures were dressed to the nines (complete with makeup) and sang and danced. Utterly brilliant. All of that before the crocodile show in which handlers put their heads in the mouths of these nasty, bad tempered creatures.
We pinched ourselves at times to make sure it was real. The Mussandam Peninsula at the northern tip of Oman; we had never even heard of it but there we were in a dhow watching for dolphins and then swimming in what seemed one of the most remote places on earth. Oman itself would be one of the more interesting countries we visited, its capital Muscat a charming city comprising enclaves of white buildings and markets among barren, rocky outcrops.
Earlier there had been the Christmas markets in Germany where we stood outdoors while it snowed, drinking Gluywein, a spiced, mulled wine, and eating bratwurst sausages, and later travelling by rail across Germany, Holland and Belgium. The Rhine Valley with its castles was simply lovely, as were the towns of Mainz and Koblenz.
Back in the Middle East we defied the car rental company’s rules to go cross-country into the desert (successfully) in search of camel racing and later to Al Ain to the camel markets. There too were the monuments to excess, the Emirates Palace Hotel (where you can get your cappuccino served with gold flakes) in Abu Dhabi and Atlantis, a hotel at the tip of the Jumeriah Palm in Dubai.
In Barbados, we swam with turtles and snorkelled over sunken ships and drove the roughest roads imaginable to sea caves and sugar plantations.
Nowhere else have we seen such beautiful seas as in Croatia and Greece. The azure blue of the water is breathtaking, as are the rocky coastlines. Perhaps the only drawback the beaches are so rocky and slippery that swimming shoes were necessary. What did surprise us was the ancient Roman architecture of northern Croatia.
One place we never dreamed that we would visit was Hungary; we were persuaded to go by a new Hungarian friend and we weren’t disappointed, particularly notable were Memento Park and its memorabilia of the communist era, its spa towns, fields of sunflowers and, intriguingly, the liberating experience of the nudist beach at Lake Balaton (so good we found more in Croatia).
In Greece one night, intoxicated perhaps by the array of women at his bar at the Apollo, Dimitri the host turned up the music and began dancing. Not to be outdone by Mad George who was wooing the women, or at least attempting to, Dimitri brought out the crockery and, in traditional Greek fashion, the plate-smashing began. What a night, it seemed unreal as we walked home afterwards while bats danced in the light of the flickering streetlamps.
Quite surprisingly we found ourselves fascinated by animals (particularly as we are too irresponsible to own any). London Zoo and its Gorillas and Galapagos Giant turtles, the snakes, retiles and coloured birds of Asia, the green monkeys and (mating) tortoises of Barbados and the native animals of Australia; Quokkas, Tasmanian Devils, Parrots, Koalas, Wombats, Kookaburras and the fascinating flying foxes.
Perhaps though the crowning glory was the monkey show in Samui and while there was no cigarette-smoking, these little creatures were dressed to the nines (complete with makeup) and sang and danced. Utterly brilliant. All of that before the crocodile show in which handlers put their heads in the mouths of these nasty, bad tempered creatures.
Infatuation
Without a shadow of a doubt, Phuket quite took our hearts, so much so that, after our initial visit in April, we returned for a second month in mid-October and would stay there forever should the authorities and finances allow it. There is just so much to love; its irresistible people, their Buddhist way of life, the tourist attractions, great food, beaches, weather and then there are those oil massages - heaven on earth. But there is too an edginess about the place that adds to its colour; the scams and the hard core entertainment scene with its red-light bars, there is the constant hustle of street traders and markets with the brand name copy- products. Then there are the tuk tuk drivers and the food vendors, and Tiggy and our girls at the New Zealand bar. We know we cannot stay away and we won’t even try to resist.
Without a shadow of a doubt, Phuket quite took our hearts, so much so that, after our initial visit in April, we returned for a second month in mid-October and would stay there forever should the authorities and finances allow it. There is just so much to love; its irresistible people, their Buddhist way of life, the tourist attractions, great food, beaches, weather and then there are those oil massages - heaven on earth. But there is too an edginess about the place that adds to its colour; the scams and the hard core entertainment scene with its red-light bars, there is the constant hustle of street traders and markets with the brand name copy- products. Then there are the tuk tuk drivers and the food vendors, and Tiggy and our girls at the New Zealand bar. We know we cannot stay away and we won’t even try to resist.
Sensational sights and places
We pinched ourselves more: Stonehenge, Anne Frank’s House in Amsterdam, The Great Pyramids and Sphinx in Egypt, The Roman Amphitheatre at Pula, Croatia, the cemeteries on the Western Front of Europe for victims of the First World War, the Jewish Memorial in Berlin, the national mosque in Abu Dhabi, dozens of churches including the Gothic cathedral in Cologne, the little picture perfect villages of the Cotswolds, Lake Como and Bellagio in Italy, the fishermen on horseback on the beach at Oistdunquirke, Belguim,
Disappointments
Dublin was bland, just another city and an overrated one at that (even the Hard Rock Cafe was ordinary), and better planning on our part could have resulted in our seeing much more of the treasures of Egypt, in particular Luxor.
Rental car companies
Hertz in Budapest provided the friendliest, most helpful service, while Budget in Dublin was worst. The attendant made you feel like it was a privilege to hire their car rather than it being a commercial transaction with most of her time spent telling us what we couldn’t do and what we would be liable for if anything went wrong. It seemed like getting a flat tyre would be a hanging offence.
Best beach
As we have chased the sun this year, Miami Beach in Barbados with its clean white sands, gentle surf and warm water has emerged as our favourite. Our memories are of the locals with their glistening black skin exercising on the beach and swimming while we ate fish cakes and drank Bajan lemonade purchased from the beach vendor, and of buying overpriced fruit from one of the local vagrants who attached himself to us and our wallets.
Other notable beaches included Valalta in Croatia, Zykanthos in Greece, Patong in Thailand and, now, Warnbro in Western Australia.
Most miserable local authority
The Ealing Council of West London is undoubtedly the most miserable local authority ever after refusing to waive a £30 parking fine incurred by Marty following his eloquent written and photographic submission that the instructions on the parking meter were incorrect and that the time recording on the ticket dispenser was wrong.
Best travelling companion
Satellite navigation wins hands down, and without this technical aid we would not have even attempted our drive in such places as Hungary and Croatia. SatNav Ken, as he was then, gave us the confidence to hire a car in countries where we were unable to even read the road signs and to travel safely to destinations we had never even heard of. We are converts and have brought a new Tom Tom to guide us through the unknown streets and roads of Western Australia.
Restaurants
For seafood, the restaurants of Zykanthos in Greece and the Oistins fish fry in Barbados are stunning. Fresh from the ocean, whole fish are served in Greece, cooked to succulent perfection, while at Oistins the Friday night fry up is a real social gathering where local fish is washed down with rum punch. Favourites included the Baby Marlin and flying fish and, no, we didn’t eat the dolphin.
The most sociable restaurateur was Larry at the Shack in Samui where we went as guests of Jade for the garlic prawns and steak. Flashest perhaps was the Shangri-La in Abu Dhabi where the cheapest bubbles comes $NZ300 a bottle. We were hosted there twice, once by Jade and then by a friend of Martin Moodie’s and later we returned to celebrate Kaelene’s birthday. The nicest dish in Abu Dhabi may have been Shawarma which cost around $5, found at a local, back street restaurant which would not be frequented by those who took us to the Shangri-La.
Similarly, the local food in Thailand varies from the expensive to that at a little local place alongside the hotel we stayed at where a meal and two beers cost around $NZ8.
For the most stunning restaurant view, there was the place at the top of the hill, perched high, overlooking Lake Geneva where we went with Helen Kelly. While we savoured our cheese fondue, we could see from Geneva at one end to Montrose at the other.
Could do (much) better
The Egyptian Museum in Cairo houses the country’s most magnificent and priceless collection of treasures (we had thought most of Egypt had been plundered, but not so), but the place is dowdy and disorganised. It could be so much better.
Maddest place
If chaos is madness then Cairo is the one. Frenetic, twenty million people, every one it seems a taxi driver, each with a beaten up old eastern European car. There are, it seems, no road rules, but everything seems to work. This is a city where you can buy wine, but not an opener, and where donkeys share the roads with cars. It is not for the faint hearted.
Worst habit
Confession time. We have started to drink beer using stubby holders. Crikey, what will become of us?
We pinched ourselves more: Stonehenge, Anne Frank’s House in Amsterdam, The Great Pyramids and Sphinx in Egypt, The Roman Amphitheatre at Pula, Croatia, the cemeteries on the Western Front of Europe for victims of the First World War, the Jewish Memorial in Berlin, the national mosque in Abu Dhabi, dozens of churches including the Gothic cathedral in Cologne, the little picture perfect villages of the Cotswolds, Lake Como and Bellagio in Italy, the fishermen on horseback on the beach at Oistdunquirke, Belguim,
Disappointments
Dublin was bland, just another city and an overrated one at that (even the Hard Rock Cafe was ordinary), and better planning on our part could have resulted in our seeing much more of the treasures of Egypt, in particular Luxor.
Rental car companies
Hertz in Budapest provided the friendliest, most helpful service, while Budget in Dublin was worst. The attendant made you feel like it was a privilege to hire their car rather than it being a commercial transaction with most of her time spent telling us what we couldn’t do and what we would be liable for if anything went wrong. It seemed like getting a flat tyre would be a hanging offence.
Best beach
As we have chased the sun this year, Miami Beach in Barbados with its clean white sands, gentle surf and warm water has emerged as our favourite. Our memories are of the locals with their glistening black skin exercising on the beach and swimming while we ate fish cakes and drank Bajan lemonade purchased from the beach vendor, and of buying overpriced fruit from one of the local vagrants who attached himself to us and our wallets.
Other notable beaches included Valalta in Croatia, Zykanthos in Greece, Patong in Thailand and, now, Warnbro in Western Australia.
Most miserable local authority
The Ealing Council of West London is undoubtedly the most miserable local authority ever after refusing to waive a £30 parking fine incurred by Marty following his eloquent written and photographic submission that the instructions on the parking meter were incorrect and that the time recording on the ticket dispenser was wrong.
Best travelling companion
Satellite navigation wins hands down, and without this technical aid we would not have even attempted our drive in such places as Hungary and Croatia. SatNav Ken, as he was then, gave us the confidence to hire a car in countries where we were unable to even read the road signs and to travel safely to destinations we had never even heard of. We are converts and have brought a new Tom Tom to guide us through the unknown streets and roads of Western Australia.
Restaurants
For seafood, the restaurants of Zykanthos in Greece and the Oistins fish fry in Barbados are stunning. Fresh from the ocean, whole fish are served in Greece, cooked to succulent perfection, while at Oistins the Friday night fry up is a real social gathering where local fish is washed down with rum punch. Favourites included the Baby Marlin and flying fish and, no, we didn’t eat the dolphin.
The most sociable restaurateur was Larry at the Shack in Samui where we went as guests of Jade for the garlic prawns and steak. Flashest perhaps was the Shangri-La in Abu Dhabi where the cheapest bubbles comes $NZ300 a bottle. We were hosted there twice, once by Jade and then by a friend of Martin Moodie’s and later we returned to celebrate Kaelene’s birthday. The nicest dish in Abu Dhabi may have been Shawarma which cost around $5, found at a local, back street restaurant which would not be frequented by those who took us to the Shangri-La.
Similarly, the local food in Thailand varies from the expensive to that at a little local place alongside the hotel we stayed at where a meal and two beers cost around $NZ8.
For the most stunning restaurant view, there was the place at the top of the hill, perched high, overlooking Lake Geneva where we went with Helen Kelly. While we savoured our cheese fondue, we could see from Geneva at one end to Montrose at the other.
Could do (much) better
The Egyptian Museum in Cairo houses the country’s most magnificent and priceless collection of treasures (we had thought most of Egypt had been plundered, but not so), but the place is dowdy and disorganised. It could be so much better.
Maddest place
If chaos is madness then Cairo is the one. Frenetic, twenty million people, every one it seems a taxi driver, each with a beaten up old eastern European car. There are, it seems, no road rules, but everything seems to work. This is a city where you can buy wine, but not an opener, and where donkeys share the roads with cars. It is not for the faint hearted.
Worst habit
Confession time. We have started to drink beer using stubby holders. Crikey, what will become of us?
Well, it has been a fabulous year, roll on 2010 . . . . .
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